The Call Of The Surf Classic Reprint
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Author | : Chas Smith |
Publisher | : Rare Bird Books |
Total Pages | : 188 |
Release | : 2019-12-11 |
Genre | : Social Science |
ISBN | : 9781644280331 |
From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.
Author | : |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 126 |
Release | : 1991 |
Genre | : Surfing |
ISBN | : |
Author | : Chas Smith |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 0 |
Release | : 2020 |
Genre | : Surfing |
ISBN | : 9781644280751 |
From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction and Cocaine + Surfing A gonzo ride through the Middle East as only Chas Smith, the award-winning author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell and Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair, could provide. Follow Smith and his misfit band of merrymakers as they search for the true origins of Al Qaeda and endeavor to ride the unsurfed waves of Yemen all while exploring the slim opportunities for fun in the margins of our global war on terror and at what cost--even if it means eventual kidnapping by Hezbollah.
Author | : Edgar Allan Poe |
Publisher | : Oregan Publishing |
Total Pages | : 1281 |
Release | : 2012-11-17 |
Genre | : Fiction |
ISBN | : 8822866452 |
This Classic Horror Collection is the ultimate book bundle for readers of classic gothic, vampire, horror and science fiction. Each masterful novel in this collection has inspired numerous adaptations, re-imaginings, and even whole genres of fiction. This collection contains: • The Willows by Algernon Blackwood • The King in Yellow by Robert William Chambers • The House on the Borderland by William Hope Hodgson • The Turn of the Screw by Henry James • Ghost Stories of an Antiquary by Montague Rhodes James • The Fall of the House of Usher by Edgar Allan Poe • Carmilla by Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu • The Call of Cthulhu by H. P. Lovecraft • The White People by Arthur Machen • William Wilson by Edgar Allan Poe • The Jewel of Seven Stars by Bram Stoker Also available Classic Horror Collection Vol 1: Dracula, Frankenstein, The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, Jekyll and Hyde... (Golden Deer Classics)
Author | : Ben Marcus |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 210 |
Release | : 2013-03-05 |
Genre | : Sports & Recreation |
ISBN | : 0760344515 |
First published as Surfing USA! in 2005.
Author | : Matt Titone |
Publisher | : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV |
Total Pages | : 0 |
Release | : 2017 |
Genre | : Architectural photography |
ISBN | : 9783899559071 |
Many abodes can fall under the label of surf shack: New York City apartments, cabins nestled next to national parks, or tiny Hawaiian huts. Surfing communities are overflowing with creativity, innovation, and rich personas. Surf Shacks takes a deeper look at surfers' homes and artistic habits. Glimpses of record collections, strolls through backyard gardens, or a peek into a painter's studio provide insight into surfers' lives both on and off shore. From the remote Hawaiian nook of filmmaker Jess Bianchi to the woodsy Japanese paradise that the former CEO of Surfrider Foundation in Japan, Hiromi Masubara, calls home to the converted bus that Ryan Lovelace claims as his domicile and his transport, every space has a unique tale. The moments that these vibrant personalities spend away from the swell and the froth are both captivating and nuanced.
Author | : |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 1112 |
Release | : 2000 |
Genre | : Surfing |
ISBN | : |
Author | : |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 750 |
Release | : 1923 |
Genre | : Motion pictures |
ISBN | : |
Author | : Jeff Divine, Ben Marcus |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 216 |
Release | : |
Genre | : |
ISBN | : 9781610606868 |
Author | : William Finnegan |
Publisher | : Penguin |
Total Pages | : 466 |
Release | : 2016-04-26 |
Genre | : Biography & Autobiography |
ISBN | : 0143109391 |
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.