Surf Break
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Author | : The Editors of Surfer Magazine |
Publisher | : Chronicle Books |
Total Pages | : 172 |
Release | : 2006-05-04 |
Genre | : Sports & Recreation |
ISBN | : 9780811850001 |
Surfer Magazine offers the ultimate guide to catching the best waves from the pristine points of Santa Barbara to the sunny beaches of San Diego. For more than 250 spots, this sturdy manual sporting a water-resistant cover delivers a clear assessment of wave quality, prime wave conditions, and local hazards (both natural and manmade). Informative text answers the burning questions that surfers often pose: What tide? What wind? What swell? How are the locals? Are they worse than the sharksor the traffic? With helpful maps, photos, and directions, this Surfer's Guide is sure to become the gold standard for anyone looking to score the perfect wave.
Author | : The Editors of Surfer Magazine |
Publisher | : Chronicle Books |
Total Pages | : 188 |
Release | : 2006-05-04 |
Genre | : Sports & Recreation |
ISBN | : 9780811849982 |
Surfer Magazine offers the ultimate guide to catching the best waves from the redwood shores of the Oregon-California border to the wind- blasted coastal plains of San Luis Obispo County. For more than 250 spots, this sturdy manual sporting a water-resistant covers delivers a clear assessment of wave quality, prime wave conditions, and local hazards (both natural and manmade). Informative text answers the burning questions that surfers often pose: What tide? What wind? What swell? How are the locals? Are they worse than the sharksor the traffic? With helpful maps, photos, and directions, this Surfer's Guide is sure to become the gold standard for anyone looking to score the perfect wave.
Author | : William Finnegan |
Publisher | : Penguin |
Total Pages | : 466 |
Release | : 2016-04-26 |
Genre | : Biography & Autobiography |
ISBN | : 0143109391 |
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Author | : Lonely Planet |
Publisher | : Lonely Planet |
Total Pages | : 0 |
Release | : 2020-08-18 |
Genre | : Sports & Recreation |
ISBN | : 9781788686501 |
Lonely Planet explores the world's most righteous spots for riding waves in Epic Surf Breaks, the latest addition to its popular Epic series. From Java's G-Land to Hawaii's North Shore and on to Bells Beach in Victoria, Australia, surfers of all levels are sure to be thrilled. With stunning photography and gripping first hand accounts, there's no denying this ride will be epic.
Author | : Hope Malone |
Publisher | : Bad Birds |
Total Pages | : 77 |
Release | : 2023-08-17 |
Genre | : Fiction |
ISBN | : |
Short and steamy, standalone curvy girl, opposites-attract romance, with a guaranteed HEA, no cheating, and no cliffhangers. She’s a librarian who loves steamy romances. He’s a surfer who likes it wet and wild. Will these two finally get it on when their long-held desires bubble to the surface? CHLOE I’m a bookworm, which sees me working at the local library to feed my addiction. Little did I know my life as a librarian was about to be interrupted by something hotter than any of the steamy novels to hand. But it’s true. Blake Mitchell, my dream guy, is back in town and apparently determined to give me my own wet and wild chapter. BLAKE I’ve always loved my life on the road, of chasing the surf, and being free. Of late, though, I’ve been longing for something more permanent, a home of my own. But they say home is where the heart is, and there’s only one heart I’m interested in. But, thanks to my ‘here today, gone tomorrow’ reputation, my chances of attracting Chloe Henderson’s affections are zero. And then she shows me the error of my ways, as well as her gorgeous curves, and all is right with my world. TRIGGER WARNING: In Surf Break, Chloe is bullied. However, with Blake's love she overcomes this, coming out on top in more ways than one. There is definitely an HEA as regards this, as no one should be bullied, ever. As one reviewer put it: "Just love a story where the girl not only gets her happily ever after, but her self worth too. Bravo Ms. Malone - 5-STARS" If you love a steamy read with a healthy dose of instalove, then welcome to Coogan's Break, where the girls are curvy, and the guys hotter than hell. The books in the Coogan's Break world can be read as standalones and a perfect for fans of Sophie Sparks, C.L. Cruz, and Lena Little. This is a HOT opposites attract, romantic story with a guaranteed happily ever after and no cheating. It also has sexy times aplenty. Enjoy!
Author | : Mick Scott |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : |
Release | : 2021-12 |
Genre | : |
ISBN | : 9780646850139 |
Author | : Kem Nunn |
Publisher | : Simon and Schuster |
Total Pages | : 322 |
Release | : 2012-06-19 |
Genre | : Fiction |
ISBN | : 1451645554 |
NATIONAL BOOK AWARD FINALIST Kem Nunn’s “surf noir” classic is a thrilling plunge into the seedy underbelly of a Southern California beach town—the inspiration for the film Point Break. People go to Huntington Beach in search of the endless parties, the ultimate highs, and the perfect waves. Ike Tucker has come to look for his missing sister and for the three men who may have murdered her. In that place of gilded surfers and sun-bleached blonds, Ike’s search takes him on a journey through a twisted world of crazed Vietnam vets, sadistic surfers, drug dealers, and mysterious seducers. He looks into the shadows and finds parties that drift toward pointless violence, joyless vacations, and highs you may never come down from...and a sea of old hatreds and dreams gone bad. And if he’s not careful, his is a journey from which he will never return.
Author | : Louise Southerden |
Publisher | : Ballantine Books |
Total Pages | : 273 |
Release | : 2009-01-21 |
Genre | : Sports & Recreation |
ISBN | : 0307491498 |
CATCH THE WAVE Have you always thought surfing looks like so much fun but lacked the confidence to try it? Do you dream of having sun-bleached hair and surf-toned arms? Maybe you’d like to join those surfers you watch from the comfort of your beach towel? With women’s surfing booming as never before, now is the perfect time to grab a board and get out there! If you’re a girl who longs to mix it up with the boys in the surf, carve graceful lines across the face of a wave, and feel the exhilaration of surfing, this book is for you. Surf’s Up has it all, including • what to look for when buying a surfboard • how to find the right waves • how to paddle out, catch waves, stand up, and turn your board • a colorful history of women’s surfing, from Gidget to Beachley • where to find North America’s dream surfing spots Writing with the passion that comes from living the surfing life for more than fifteen years, Louise Southerden brings her love of surfing to every page, offering a glimpse of surfing subculture, surf lingo, the rules of the waves, and helpful tips from other surfer girls who have survived the learning-to-surf journey. Surf’s Up is encouraging and empowering: a book no surfer girl should be without!
Author | : Raymond Pettibon |
Publisher | : David Zwirner Books |
Total Pages | : 0 |
Release | : 2015-06-23 |
Genre | : Art |
ISBN | : 9781941701157 |
Limning a dizzying array of topics with his distinctive combinations of image and text, Raymond Pettibon has created a vocabulary of characters and symbols that reappear consistently if enigmatically across his oeuvre, ranging from baseball players, atomic bombs, and railway trains to the cartoon Gumby. But the most poetic and revealing of Pettibon’s symbols may be the surfer, the solitary longboarder challenging a massive wave. In his surfer works, viewers ride along with a counterculture existentialist hero who perhaps is the artist’s nearest proxy. This revised and expanded edition of Raymond Pettibon: Surfers 1985–2015, the first printing of which sold out almost immediately upon publication in 2014, features twenty additional works, as well as new color separations and jacket design. Nearly all the works included in this volume depict an ocean roiling with chaotic swells, accompanied by non sequiturs, quotations, and fragments of poetry in the artist’s handwriting. Organized chronologically, the publication traces Pettibon’s prolific output of his surfer series, from early small-scale monochrome India ink drawings to numerous examples from the 1990s when the artist introduced color, culminating with his recent large-scale works, some of which were executed directly on a wall. Rounding out the publication is a poetic meditation by the writer Carlo McCormick, which captures the essence of Pettibon’s surfing works: “Riddled with enigma, Raymond Pettibon’s art speaks little about himself the artist, preferring rather to address more central questions on the nature of self, but he tells us this, ‘Some things (sea foam, for instance) cannot be drawn at all, but only surfed,’ or again, ‘All this must be either surfed or painted.’ ”
Author | : Patrick Moser |
Publisher | : University of Hawaii Press |
Total Pages | : 354 |
Release | : 2008-05-08 |
Genre | : Fiction |
ISBN | : 0824831551 |
A thousand years after Hawaiians first paddled long wooden boards into the ocean, modern surfers have continued this practice, which has recently been transformed into a global industry. Pacific Passages brings together four centuries of writing about surfing, the most comprehensive collection of Polynesian and Western perspectives on the history and culture of a sport currently enjoyed by millions of people around the world. The stories begin with Hawaiian legends and chants and are followed by the journals of explorers; the travel narratives of missionaries and luminaries such as Herman Melville, Mark Twain, and Jack London; and the contemporary observations of Tom Wolfe, William Finnegan, Susan Orlean, and Bob Shacochis. Readers follow the historical transformation of surfing’s image through the centuries: from Polynesian myths of love to Western accounts of horror and exoticism in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, to modern representations of surfing as a character-building activity in pre-World-War II California and the quintessential expression of disaffected youth. They explore the sport’s most recent trends by writers and cultural critics, whose insights into technology, competition, gender, heritage, and globalism reveal how surfing impacts some of today’s most pressing social concerns. Aided by informative introductions, the writings in Pacific Passages provide insight into the values and ideals of Polynesian and Western cultures, revealing how each has altered and been altered by surfing—and how the sport itself has shown an amazing ability throughout the centuries to survive, adapt, and prosper.