Quantifying Wave Breaking Shape And Suspended Sediment In The Surf Zone
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Author | : Derek Jackson |
Publisher | : Elsevier |
Total Pages | : 814 |
Release | : 2020-05-20 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 0081029276 |
Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.
Author | : Ping Wang |
Publisher | : World Scientific |
Total Pages | : 2751 |
Release | : 2011 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 9814355534 |
This proceedings contains nearly 200 papers on cutting-edge research presented at the seventh international Symposium on Coastal Engineering and Science of Coastal Sediment Processes, held May 2OCo6, 2011, in Miami, Florida, USA. This technical specialty conference was devoted to promoting an interdisciplinary exchange of state-of-the-art knowledge among researchers in the fields of coastal engineering, geology, oceanography, and related disciplines, with a theme of bringing together theory and practice. Focusing on the physical aspects of sediment processes in various coastal environments, this three-volume conference proceedings provides findings from the latest research and newest engineering applications. Session topics cover a wide range including barrier-island morphodynamics and evolution, beach nourishment and shore protection, coastal dunes, cohesive sediment transport, field and laboratory measurements of sediment transport processes and numerical modeling, gravel transport, large-scale and long-term coastal changes, LiDAR and remote sensing, longshore and cross-shore sediment transport, marsh and wetlands, regional sediment management, river deltas, sea-level changes, shelf and sand bodies, shoreline changes, tidal inlets and navigation channels. A special session on recent research findings at the Northern Gulf of Mexico is also included."
Author | : M. Schwartz |
Publisher | : Springer Science & Business Media |
Total Pages | : 1243 |
Release | : 2006-11-08 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 1402038801 |
This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.
Author | : National Sea Grant College Program (U.S.) |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 266 |
Release | : 1989 |
Genre | : Marine resources |
ISBN | : |
Author | : Saad M. M. Abdelrahman |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 140 |
Release | : 1986 |
Genre | : Littoral drift |
ISBN | : |
The omni-present low frequency wave motion (30-300 sec) contains a substantial fraction of the total wave energy inside the surf zone. A more complete description of nearshore wave processes considers incident short period waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber and direction due to relatively slowly varying depth changes caused by the long waves. The energy in the wind wave band is enhanced by side band growth at the sum and difference frequencies of short and long waves (order 15% at the shoreline). The modulation is identified in the analysis of field data as a positive correlation between the long waves and the wind wave envelope near the shoreline. Considering oblique incident waves, a steady longshore current showing a non-vanishing current at the shoreline is found as a result of the non-linear interaction between monochromatic incident and infragravity waves. An analytical solution describing the unsteadiness of the longshore current is developed. Keywords include: Infragravity, Longshore Current, Sediment transport, and Surf zone dynamics. (Theses).
Author | : Ping Wang |
Publisher | : World Scientific |
Total Pages | : 2986 |
Release | : 2023-03-24 |
Genre | : Technology & Engineering |
ISBN | : 9811275149 |
This Proceedings contains about 270 papers on a wide range of research topics on coastal sediment processes, including nearshore sediment transport and modeling, beach processes, shore protection and coastal managements, and coastal resilience building.The unique book provides a comprehensive documentation of cutting-edge research on coastal sediment process and morphodynamics from eminent researchers worldwide. Readers can learn the most current knowledge on numerous topics concerning coastal sediment processes and shore protection.
Author | : National Research Council |
Publisher | : National Academies Press |
Total Pages | : 130 |
Release | : 1989-02-01 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 0309041295 |
Much of the U.S. coastline is rapidly changingâ€"mostly eroding. That fact places increasing pressure on the planners and managers responsible for coastal development and protection, and could have a direct effect on many of the 125 million Americans living within 50 miles of the coast who rely on its resources and beaches for their livelihood or recreation. Although rapid advances have been made in the measurement systems needed to understand and describe the forces and changes at work in the surf-zone environment, their potential for allowing more accurate and reliable planning and engineering responses has not been fully realized. This book assesses coastal data needs, instrumentation, and analyses, and recommends areas in which more information or better instrumentation is needed.
Author | : Jun Cheng |
Publisher | : World Scientific |
Total Pages | : 3129 |
Release | : 2015-04-23 |
Genre | : Technology & Engineering |
ISBN | : 981468998X |
This Proceedings contains over 260 papers on cutting-edge research presented at the eighth international Symposium on Coastal Sediment Processes, held May 11 - 15, 2015, in San Diego, California, USA. This technical specialty conference was devoted to promoting an interdisciplinary exchange of state-of-the-art knowledge among researchers in the fields of coastal engineering, geology, oceanography, and related disciplines, with the theme of Understanding and Working with Nature.Focusing on the physical aspects of the sediment processes in various coastal environments, this Proceedings provides findings from the latest research and newest engineering applications. Sessions covered a wide range of topics including barrier islands, beaches, climate and sea level, cohesive and noncohesive sediments, coastal bluffs, coastal marsh, dredged sediments, inlet and navigation channels, regional sediment management, river deltas, shore protection, tsunamis, and vegetation-sediment interaction. Several special sessions included: Relevant science for changing coastlines: A Tribute to Gary Griggs; North Atlantic Coast Comprehensive Study and post-super-storm Sandy work; long-term coastal evolution; barrier islands of Louisiana; sea-level rise and super storms in a warming world; predicting decadal coastal geomorphic evolution; and contrasting Pacific coastal behavior with El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO), are also featured.
Author | : Matteo Postacchini |
Publisher | : MDPI |
Total Pages | : 182 |
Release | : 2020-03-19 |
Genre | : Technology & Engineering |
ISBN | : 3039284843 |
The coastal zone is the host to many human activities, which have significantly increased in the last decades. However, sea level rise and more frequent storm events severely affect beaches and coastal structures, with negative consequences and dramatic impacts on coastal communities. These aspects add to typical coastal problems, like flooding and beach erosion, which already leading to large economic losses and human fatalities. Modeling is thus fundamental for an exhaustive understanding of the nearshore region in the present and future environment. Innovative tools and technologies may help to better understand coastal processes in terms of hydrodynamics, sediment transport, bed morphology, and their interaction with coastal structures. This book collects several contributions focusing on nearshore dynamics, and span among several time and spatial scales using both physical and numerical approaches. The aim is to describe the most recent advances in coastal dynamics.
Author | : |
Publisher | : Academic Press |
Total Pages | : 6392 |
Release | : 2013-02-27 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 0080885225 |
The changing focus and approach of geomorphic research suggests that the time is opportune for a summary of the state of discipline. The number of peer-reviewed papers published in geomorphic journals has grown steadily for more than two decades and, more importantly, the diversity of authors with respect to geographic location and disciplinary background (geography, geology, ecology, civil engineering, computer science, geographic information science, and others) has expanded dramatically. As more good minds are drawn to geomorphology, and the breadth of the peer-reviewed literature grows, an effective summary of contemporary geomorphic knowledge becomes increasingly difficult. The fourteen volumes of this Treatise on Geomorphology will provide an important reference for users from undergraduate students looking for term paper topics, to graduate students starting a literature review for their thesis work, and professionals seeking a concise summary of a particular topic. Information on the historical development of diverse topics within geomorphology provides context for ongoing research; discussion of research strategies, equipment, and field methods, laboratory experiments, and numerical simulations reflect the multiple approaches to understanding Earth’s surfaces; and summaries of outstanding research questions highlight future challenges and suggest productive new avenues for research. Our future ability to adapt to geomorphic changes in the critical zone very much hinges upon how well landform scientists comprehend the dynamics of Earth’s diverse surfaces. This Treatise on Geomorphology provides a useful synthesis of the state of the discipline, as well as highlighting productive research directions, that Educators and students/researchers will find useful. Geomorphology has advanced greatly in the last 10 years to become a very interdisciplinary field. Undergraduate students looking for term paper topics, to graduate students starting a literature review for their thesis work, and professionals seeking a concise summary of a particular topic will find the answers they need in this broad reference work which has been designed and written to accommodate their diverse backgrounds and levels of understanding Editor-in-Chief, Prof. J. F. Shroder of the University of Nebraska at Omaha, is past president of the QG&G section of the Geological Society of America and present Trustee of the GSA Foundation, while being well respected in the geomorphology research community and having won numerous awards in the field. A host of noted international geomorphologists have contributed state-of-the-art chapters to the work. Readers can be guaranteed that every chapter in this extensive work has been critically reviewed for consistency and accuracy by the World expert Volume Editors and by the Editor-in-Chief himself No other reference work exists in the area of Geomorphology that offers the breadth and depth of information contained in this 14-volume masterpiece. From the foundations and history of geomorphology through to geomorphological innovations and computer modelling, and the past and future states of landform science, no "stone" has been left unturned!