I Surf, Therefore I Am
Author | : Peter Kreeft |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 0 |
Release | : 2008 |
Genre | : Philosophy |
ISBN | : 9781587313776 |
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Author | : Peter Kreeft |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 0 |
Release | : 2008 |
Genre | : Philosophy |
ISBN | : 9781587313776 |
Author | : Peter Kreeft |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 192 |
Release | : 2009 |
Genre | : Philosophy |
ISBN | : |
Science, philosophy and poetry, myth and mysticism are three modes of consciousness that are radically different today. Almost no one tries to connect them in a synthesis in which each maintains its own identity yet each contributes to a greater whole that no one of them could attain alone. This book dares to try and find a "Theory of Everything"--From back cover.
Author | : Fiona Capp |
Publisher | : Allen & Unwin |
Total Pages | : 304 |
Release | : 2005 |
Genre | : Biography & Autobiography |
ISBN | : 9781741144734 |
A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing.
Author | : Aaron James |
Publisher | : Anchor |
Total Pages | : 342 |
Release | : 2017-08-08 |
Genre | : Philosophy |
ISBN | : 0385540744 |
From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Author | : Andy Clark |
Publisher | : Oxford University Press, USA |
Total Pages | : 425 |
Release | : 2016 |
Genre | : Medical |
ISBN | : 0190217014 |
This title brings together work on embodiment, action, and the predictive mind. At the core is the vision of human minds as prediction machines - devices that constantly try to stay one step ahead of the breaking waves of sensory stimulation, by actively predicting the incoming flow. In every situation we encounter, that complex prediction machinery is already buzzing, proactively trying to anticipate the sensory barrage. The book shows in detail how this strange but potent strategy of self-anticipation ushers perception, understanding, and imagination simultaneously onto the cognitive stage.
Author | : David Rensin |
Publisher | : Harper Collins |
Total Pages | : 826 |
Release | : 2009-03-17 |
Genre | : Biography & Autobiography |
ISBN | : 0061868167 |
For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.
Author | : Shane Sebastian |
Publisher | : Higherlife Development Service |
Total Pages | : 0 |
Release | : 2019-05 |
Genre | : |
ISBN | : 9781732502680 |
Dropping In -Experience the Life You Were Meant to Live Do you live for thrill or for fear? If somewhere in the depth of your soul you long for more out of life than just playing it safe, getting by - existing, then this book is for you. Despite what you may think, this book is not about surfing, well not primarily. It's about living the kind of exhilarating, thrilling, almost too-good-to-be-believed kind of life that's actually possible. What surfing represents, and many surfers have experienced, is a feeling called "stoke." It's that happiness, that thrill and pure joy that comes when you catch and ride that perfect wave. Believe it or not, God intends for you to have this kind of life. And yet so often we settle for much less. Dropping In will help you open your heart, mind, and soul to the possibility of living differently. If standing on the shore of life has lost its appeal and you are ready to experience more, then you're ready to drop in and catch the wave of God's divine flow in your life that will keep you smiling!
Author | : Susan Casey |
Publisher | : Anchor Canada |
Total Pages | : 434 |
Release | : 2011-05-31 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 0385666683 |
A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.
Author | : Mami Wata |
Publisher | : Ten Speed Press |
Total Pages | : 320 |
Release | : 2021-06-15 |
Genre | : Sports & Recreation |
ISBN | : 1984860410 |
Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.
Author | : Clay Marzo |
Publisher | : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt |
Total Pages | : 293 |
Release | : 2015 |
Genre | : Biography & Autobiography |
ISBN | : 0544256212 |
From the best freestyle surfer in the world, an inspiring and moving memoir about his ascendance to the top of the surfing world while struggling for most of his young life with undiagnosed Asperger's syndrome Clay Marzo has an almost preternatural gift with a surfboard. From his first moments underwater (he learned to swim at two months old) to his first ventures atop his father's surfboard as a toddler, it was obvious that Marzo's single-minded focus on all things surfing was unique. But not until late in his teens, when this surfing phenom was diagnosed with Asperger's syndrome, did the deeper reasons for his obsession--and his astonishing gift for surfing--becomeclear. Just Add Water is the remarkable story of Marzo's rise to the top of the pro surfing world--and the personal trials he overcame in making it there. Marzo endured a difficult childhood. He was a colicky baby who his mother found could be soothed only with water. Later, as he entered school, his undiagnosed Asperger's made it tough for him to relate to his peers and fit in, but his relationship with the wave was elemental. Marzo could always turn to surfing, the only place where he truly feltat peace. Unflinching and inspiring,Just Add Wateris a brave memoir from a one-of-a-kind surfing savant who has electrified fans around the world with his gift and whose story speaks boldly to the hope and ultimate triumph of the human spirit.