21st Century Dandy

21st Century Dandy
Author: Christopher Breward
Publisher:
Total Pages: 24
Release: 2003
Genre: Biography & Autobiography
ISBN:

Background; The British Council is Britain's international cultural relations organisation. Through its work in education, science, governance and the arts, the British Council aims to enhance perceptions of Britain as a creative and forward-looking nation and to challenge negative stereotypes. Art, Architecture & Design runs an international design programme of touring exhibitions, lectures, seminars and workshops with the purpose of extending the influence of British designers and encouraging the development of design elsewhere in the world. We advocate the value of design to business and government as part of our education and development activity and we contribute to the commercial promotion of British design. 21st Century Dandy will form part of the Design department programme for 2003. Target Audience; 21st Century Dandy will engage a young, general audience interested in fashion and international popular culture.The discursive content of the exhibition also aims to resonate with a specialist audience of fashion practitioners, museum curators, design journalists, the design education community (students and lecturers) - all of whom contribute to the discourse of contemporary design in which we need to sustain a profile for Britain. It will also interest garment manufacturers and retailers. The exhibition should resonate in particular in countries where menswear is equally invested with notions of national identity. The Exhibition That The Book Accompanies; Dandvism, the style and the philosophy, is uniquely British. The original dandy of 1800, George Bryan 'Beau' Brummell captured, in the turn of his cuff and the knot of his cravat, the studied irony and languor that defined his age. Brummell's preoccupation with pose and appearance was derided as the last gasp of aristocratic decadence, but in many ways he anticipated the modern era-a world of social mobility in which taste was privileged above birth and wealth.Dedicated to perfection in dress and the immaculate presentation of his body, Brummell's total control over his image finds its legacy in 21st century masculine dress styles in Britain. The tension between old and new, personal/individual and public, tradition and rebellion is just as pressing in contemporary British design language. 21st Century Dandy explores six sartorially self-conscious male types in contemporary British culture and illustrates the debt each owes to dandy philosophy. British menswear design in 2003 is at its most fertile and interesting since the Peacock Revolution in Carnaby Street in the 1960s, and it owes much to the British Iova of dressing up of ironic posturing - that Brummall practised so archetypically. The work of the designers, brands and manufacturing companies in our exhibition show how dandyism is at once an exclusive and democratic stance - democratic because it appears so easily attainable, but elusive in that so few succeed in getting it right. In reality, few British men could be easily categorised into one of our six types. The true dandy's guiding principle (individual style) rejects definition by type.But the dandy principles of exquisite beauty, quality and performance are as influential in British menswear design today as they were over 200 years ago; the cultural referentiality and material quality that characterises the best of British design could not find a better muse in the 21st century than the dandy. Section Divisions: Precis; 1. The Gentleman; A standard-bearer for quality, tradition and heritage, the Gentleman is the epitome of propriety. A Gentleman's wardrobe is detailed to perfection whilst appearing effortless. 2. Hoxton Dandy; Personifying the lifestyle/fashion/music/art nexus, the Hoxton Dandy is a media savvy neo-bohemien who parades ostentatious utilitarianism of his clothes, absinthe in hand, in the wide open spaces of Hoxton's galleries and bars. 3. Terrace Casual; The Terrace Casual's country clothes - hunting tweeds and golfing sweaters - actually

Dandies

Dandies
Author: Susan Fillin-Yeh
Publisher: NYU Press
Total Pages: 303
Release: 2001-03
Genre: Design
ISBN: 0814726968

Dandies: Fashion and Finesse in Art and Culture considers the visual languages, politics, and poetics of personal appearance. Dandyism has been most closely associated with influential caucasian Western men-about-town, epitomized by the 19th century style-setting of Oscar Wilde and by Tom Wolfe's white suits. The essays collected here, however, examine the spectacle and workings of dandyism to reveal that these were not the only dandies. On the contrary, art historians, literary and cultural historians, and anthropologists identify unrecognized dandies flourishing among early 19th century Native Americans, in Soviet Latvia, in Africa, throughout the African-American diaspora, among women, and in the art world. Moving beyond historical and fictional accounts of dandies, this volume juxtaposes theoretical models with evocative images and descriptions of clothing in order to link sartorial self-construction with artistic, social, and political self-invention. Taking into consideration the vast changes in thinking about identity in the academy, Dandies provides a compelling study of dandyism's destabilizing aesthetic enterprise. Contributors: Jennifer Blessing, Susan Fillin-Yeh, Rhonda Garelick, Joe Lucchesi, Kim Miller, Robert E. Moore, Richard J. Powell, Carter Ratcliffe, and Mark Allen Svede.

The New English Dandy

The New English Dandy
Author: Alice Cicolini
Publisher:
Total Pages: 0
Release: 2007
Genre: Costume design
ISBN: 9780500286807

At once a fashion handbook and a treasure trove of ideas tailored to the modern male or metrosexual, this book is destined to be the bible of men's dressy style, its accoutrements and lifestyle accompaniments. Six chapters define six takes on the 21st-century dandy, each featuring a specially commissioned 16-page fashion shoot, and eight pages of bespoke inspiration, instruction, interviews and insight. The New English Dandy sets the standard for today's new man about town.

Dandyism

Dandyism
Author: Len Gutkin
Publisher: University of Virginia Press
Total Pages: 362
Release: 2020-02-26
Genre: Literary Criticism
ISBN: 0813943914

The "dandy," a nineteenth-century character and concept exemplified in such works as Wilde’s The Picture of Dorian Gray, reverberates in surprising corners of twentieth- and twenty-first-century culture. Establishing this character as a kind of shorthand for a diverse range of traits and tendencies, including gentlemanliness, rebelliousness, androgyny, aristocratic pretension, theatricality, and extravagance, Len Gutkin traces Victorian aesthetic precedents in the work of the modernist avant-garde, the noir novel, Beatnik experimentalism, and the postmodern thriller. As defined in the period between the fin de siècle and modernism, dandyism was inextricable from representations of queerness. But, rinsed of its suspect associations with the effeminate, dandyism would exert influence over such macho authors as Hemingway and Chandler, who harnessed its decadent energy. Dandyism, Gutkin argues, is a species of gendered charisma. The performative masquerade of Wilde’s decadent dandy is an ancestor to both the gender performance at work in American cowboy lore and the precious self-presentation of twenty-first-century hipsters. We cannot understand modernism and postmodernism’s negotiation of gender, aesthetic abstraction, or the culture of celebrity without the dandy. Analyzing the characteristic focus on costume, consumption, and the well-turned phrase in readings of figures ranging from Wyndham Lewis, Djuna Barnes, and William Burroughs to Patricia Highsmith, Bret Easton Ellis, and Ben Lerner, Dandyism reveals the Victorian dandy’s legacy across the twentieth century, providing a revisionist history of the relationship between Victorian aesthetics and twentieth-century literature.

Dandy

Dandy
Author: Nigel Rodgers
Publisher: Bene Factum Publishing
Total Pages: 249
Release: 2012-05-01
Genre: History
ISBN: 190307147X

A look at the phenomenon of the dandy from Regency England to the contemporary Congolese Sapeurs, with stops at Wodehouse, Wilde, Grant, and more The dandy is not just an elaborately or even well-dressed man, nor is he an exclusively English phenomenon. He is something far more universal and intriguing, and this study explores his cultural significance. It starts with Beau Brummell, acknowledged as the very first dandy, a man whose ancestors had been servants, yet who invented a new paradigm of courtesy, wit, independence, and elegance to lord over the aristocrats of England. Brummell died in exile, forgotten and impoverished—the best dandies often die in debt. But his image lived on, to haunt and inspire generations around the world, from the boulevards of Paris and St. Petersburg in the 1830s to the studios of Hollywood a century later. Byron, Disraeli, Bulwer, Pushkin, Chopin, Delacroix, Balzac, Baudelaire, Wilde, Proust, Boni de Castellane, Hugo von Hofmannstahl, Beerbohm, Noël Coward, Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, Vladimir Nabokov, Ortega y Gassett, Mikhael Bulgakov, Evelyn Waugh, Scott Fitzgerald, Tom Wolfe, Nick Foulkes—all were bedazzled by the image of the dandy.

No Dandy, No Fun

No Dandy, No Fun
Author: Hans-Christian Dany
Publisher: MIT Press
Total Pages: 0
Release: 2024-02-20
Genre: Art
ISBN: 395679561X

A cultural examination of the enigmatically iconic figure of the Dandy, both in history and as a figure for the future. No sooner had the first Dandy entered the scene at the beginning of the nineteenth century than he was declared dead. This enigmatic yet immediately iconic figure would remake an entrance again and again in the decades that followed. Like an elegant harbinger, Dandys arrive in times of crisis when societies are undergoing transformation. Like the hands of a clock, their silhouettes become messengers of change. But they are contours of change that carry no message. While everything is already in flames, they debate the shape of their shoes and sip oysters to combat their depression. For a long time, literature was their playing field. Marcel Duchamp transferred their attitude into the realm art. It is there that Dandyism has to this day run rampant--but as if it were an embarrassing illness to which almost no one wants to admit, yet with which many people are itching to at least flirt. This essay traces out the masked ball of the Dandy and his manner of playing with its rules up to the present day and produces a unique narrative from it: one that offers a view into the future.

Artist, Rebel, Dandy

Artist, Rebel, Dandy
Author: Kate Irvin
Publisher:
Total Pages: 0
Release: 2013
Genre: Costume design
ISBN: 9780300190816

A wide-ranging exploration of the dandy and men's fashion over the past two centuries, from Beau Brummell to hip-hop Artist/Rebel/Dandy celebrates the pleasures of the sharp-dressed man, from the discreet sophistication of the consummately elegant George Bryan "Beau" Brummell in the early 19th century to the diverse, highly personal flair of the tastemakers who color the landscape of menswear today. Since the word "dandy" came into vogue in London in 1813, it has at times been used to describe someone superficial, flamboyant, and self-indulgent. Instead, the dandy is here shown to employ profound thought and imagination in his self-presentation, fashioning an image that often challenges the status quo and transcends the ordinary. A series of fascinating essays traces the often contradictory definitions and images of the dandy, the history of young men and their clothes in the long 19th century, the exquisite fabrics and tailoring that play an important role in dandy style, and the relationship of black dandyism and hip-hop. In addition, this book features fifteen musings on notable dandies written by individuals who share a kinship with their subject, including Patti Smith considering Charles Baudelaire; a reflection on Oscar Wilde by his grandson, Merlin Holland; Daniela Morera, formerly part of Andy Warhol's Factory crowd, reminiscing about the artist's image; and writer Philip Hoare describing the "thrift-shop dandyism" of director John Waters. Published in association with the Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design Exhibition Schedule: Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design 04/26/13-08/18/13

D'Orsay; or, The complete dandy

D'Orsay; or, The complete dandy
Author: W. Teignmouth Shore
Publisher: Good Press
Total Pages: 162
Release: 2019-12-11
Genre: Fiction
ISBN:

"D'Orsay; or, The Complete Dandy" authored by W. Teignmouth Shore presents an illuminating biography of Count Alfred d'Orsay, a prominent figure in the fashionable circles of 19th-century society. Shore's meticulous research and engaging prose unveil the complexities of d'Orsay's character, shedding light on his role as a cultural influencer and dandy. Through vivid descriptions of high fashion, art, and social interactions, the author paints a rich portrait of d'Orsay's life, inviting readers to explore the cultural milieu of the era. By delving into the world of dandyism and its impact on society, "D'Orsay; or, The Complete Dandy" offers readers a glimpse into a captivating period of history and an individual who embodied its essence.

Political Dandyism in Literature and Art

Political Dandyism in Literature and Art
Author: Geertjan de Vugt
Publisher: Springer
Total Pages: 250
Release: 2018-06-07
Genre: Literary Criticism
ISBN: 3319908960

This book traces a genealogy of political dandyism in literature. Dandies abstain from worldly affairs, and politics in particular. As an enigmatic figure, or a being of great eccentricity, it was the dandy that haunted the literary and cultural imagination of the nineteenth century. In fact, the dandy is often seen as a quintessential nineteenth-century figure. It was surprising, then, when at the beginning of the twenty-first century this figure returned from the past to an unexpected place: the very heart of European politics. Various so-called populist leaders were seen as political dandies. But how could that figure that was once known for its aversion towards politics all of a sudden become the protagonist of a new political paradigm? Or was the dandy perhaps always already part of a political imagination? This study charts the emergence of this political paradigm. From the dandy’s first appearance to his latest resurrection, from Charles Baudelaire to Jean-François Lyotard, from dandy-insects to a dandy-Christ, this book follows his various guises and disguises.