Wind Waves

Wind Waves
Author: Blair Kinsman
Publisher: Courier Corporation
Total Pages: 706
Release: 1984-01-01
Genre: Science
ISBN: 0486646521

In this classic study, a renowned student of ocean wave theory examines the data requirements and details of the power spectral analysis required to make the wave revolution intelligible. Although the discussions center on waves, once the techniques are understood, they can be applied to many other areas. After outlining the nature of waves and wave processes and their methods of measurement and classification, the author provides a detailed exploration that relies heavily on mathematical models. Topics include perturbations of irrotational motion, energy considerations, wave generations by wind, and much more. The text is enhanced and clarified by 270 photos, figures, and tables. A helpful bibliography and indexes conclude this indispensable addition to the oceanographer's library.

Wind-Waves in Oceans

Wind-Waves in Oceans
Author: Igor Lavrenov
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 394
Release: 2003-02-27
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9783540440154

The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 9
Release: 2010-02-04
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1139462520

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Ocean Surface Waves

Ocean Surface Waves
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 514
Release: 1996
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9789810221096

This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.

The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind

The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind
Author: Peter Janssen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 310
Release: 2004-10-28
Genre: Science
ISBN: 0521465400

This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.

An Elementary Treatise on Fourier's Series

An Elementary Treatise on Fourier's Series
Author: William Elwood Byerly
Publisher: Courier Corporation
Total Pages: 308
Release: 2014-03-05
Genre: Mathematics
ISBN: 0486159906

Originally published over a century ago, this work remains among the most useful and practical expositions of Fourier's series, and spherical, cylindrical, and ellipsoidal harmonics. The subsequent growth of science into a diverse range of specialties has enhanced the value of this classic, whose thorough, basic treatment presents material that is assumed in many other studies but seldom available in such concise form. The development of functions, series, and their differential equations receives detailed explanations, and throughout the text, theory is applied to practical problems, with the solutions fully worked out. In addition, 190 problems, many with hints, are included. 1893 edition. Appendix of 6 tables.

Historical Studies in the Language of Chemistry

Historical Studies in the Language of Chemistry
Author: Maurice P. Crosland
Publisher: Courier Corporation
Total Pages: 448
Release: 2004-01-01
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9780486438023

Appropriate for undergraduate and graduate-level courses, this volume covers language of alchemy, early chemical terminology, systematic nomenclature, chemical symbolism, and language of organic chemistry. "Authoritative." ? Isis. 1962 edition.

The Grammar of Science

The Grammar of Science
Author: Karl Pearson
Publisher: Courier Corporation
Total Pages: 424
Release: 2004-01-01
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9780486495811

A major statement of the language, method, and concepts of the physical sciences, this volume traces the history of experimental investigation and the efforts of philosophic minds to state and organize their findings. A classic in the philosophy of science, it introduced the concept of a general methodology underlying all science.

Substance and Function and Einstein's Theory of Relativity

Substance and Function and Einstein's Theory of Relativity
Author: Ernst Cassirer
Publisher: Courier Corporation
Total Pages: 486
Release: 2003-01-01
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9780486495477

Double-volume work features the establishment of a general philosophical system in which Einstein's theory of relativity is regarded as the natural progression of the motives inherent to mathematics and the physical sciences. 1923 edition.