Waves In The Ocean
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Author | : Stacy McAnulty |
Publisher | : Henry Holt and Company (BYR) |
Total Pages | : 21 |
Release | : 2020-05-05 |
Genre | : Juvenile Nonfiction |
ISBN | : 1250788862 |
From writer Stacy McAnulty and illustrator David Litchfield, Ocean! Waves for All is a light-hearted nonfiction picture book about the formation and history of the ocean, told from the perspective of the ocean itself. Dude. Ocean is incredible. Atlantic, Pacific, Artic, Indian, Southern—it's all excellent Ocean! Not part of any nation, his waves are for all. And under those waves, man, he holds so many secrets. With characteristic humor and charm, Stacy McAnulty channels the voice of Ocean in this next "autobiography" in the Our Universe series. Rich with kid-friendly facts and beautifully brought to life by David Litchfield, this is an equally charming and irresistible companion to Earth! My First 4.54 Billion Years; Sun! One in a Billion; and Moon! Earth's Best Friend.
Author | : Joseph Pedlosky |
Publisher | : Springer Science & Business Media |
Total Pages | : 259 |
Release | : 2013-04-17 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 3662051311 |
A study of the fundamental theory of waves appropriate for first year graduate students in oceanography, meteorology and associated sciences. Starting with an elementary overview of the basic wave concept, specific wave phenomena are then examined, including: surface gravity waves, internal gravity waves, lee waves, waves in the presence of rotation, and geostrophic adjustment. Each wave topic is used to introduce either a new technique or concept in general wave theory. Emphasis is placed on connectivity between the various subjects and on the physical interpretation of the mathematical results. The book contains numerous exercises at the end of the respective chapters.
Author | : I.R. Young |
Publisher | : Elsevier |
Total Pages | : 307 |
Release | : 1999-03-23 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 0080543804 |
The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably.This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Author | : Michel K. Ochi |
Publisher | : Cambridge University Press |
Total Pages | : 333 |
Release | : 1998-03-28 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 052156378X |
Describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis - vital information for design and operation of ships.
Author | : Johannes Falnes |
Publisher | : Cambridge University Press |
Total Pages | : 319 |
Release | : 2020-05-28 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 1108481663 |
Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.
Author | : Peter Janssen |
Publisher | : Cambridge University Press |
Total Pages | : 310 |
Release | : 2004-10-28 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 0521465400 |
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Author | : Leo H. Holthuijsen |
Publisher | : Cambridge University Press |
Total Pages | : 9 |
Release | : 2010-02-04 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 1139462520 |
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Author | : Stanislaw R. Massel |
Publisher | : World Scientific |
Total Pages | : 514 |
Release | : 1996 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 9789810221096 |
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Author | : Willard Bascom |
Publisher | : Anchor |
Total Pages | : 528 |
Release | : 1980 |
Genre | : Nature |
ISBN | : |
Author | : P.H. LeBlond |
Publisher | : Elsevier |
Total Pages | : 617 |
Release | : 1981-01-01 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 0080879772 |
This is a book which will be welcomed not only by researchers and engineers, but also by teachers and students, as it contains the only comprehensive review of the dynamics of ocean waves. Existing books are now either out of date or restricted to specialized aspects of the subject, whereas this book covers all types of ocean waves, ranging from capillary to planetary waves. Because of its completeness of coverage, its use of elementary mathematics and the provision of numerous problems and exercises, the book will be an indispensable text for everyone. It is completed by a very lengthy bibliography which includes many references to the Russian literature.