Waves Currents And Sediment Transport In The Surf Zone Along Long Straight Beaches
Download Waves Currents And Sediment Transport In The Surf Zone Along Long Straight Beaches full books in PDF, epub, and Kindle. Read online free Waves Currents And Sediment Transport In The Surf Zone Along Long Straight Beaches ebook anywhere anytime directly on your device. Fast Download speed and no annoying ads. We cannot guarantee that every ebooks is available!
Author | : Yoshimitsu Tajima |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 313 |
Release | : 2004 |
Genre | : Beaches |
ISBN | : |
(Cont.) Introducing the predicted near-shore hydrodynamic characteristics, we extend the conceptual bedload and associated suspended load sediment transport models (Mad- sen, 2001) to the surf zone. The extended sediment transport model accounts for breaking wave effects such as an increase of turbulence due to broken waves and change of the momentum force balances due to breaking waves and surface rollers. The model predicted the peaks of longshore sediment transport observed near the shore line and the wave breaking point for plunging breakers.
Author | : Saad Mesbah M. Abdelrahman |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 180 |
Release | : 1983 |
Genre | : Beach erosion |
ISBN | : |
Water waves are one of the principal causes of shoreline changes. When waves break along the shore, they release their energy and momentum and give rise to a longshore current. The longshore current, along with the stirring action of the waves, is the primary mechanism for longshore sediment transport. The longshore sand transport rate is an essential factor determining erosion or accretion along a coast. If the longshore sand transport rate can be accurately estimated, a quantitative picture of shoreline evolution can be evaluated, including changes of the shoreline due to marine structures. In the present study, analytical and numerical models are developed based on a longshore current model for random waves and a sediment transport formulation by Thornton to predict the cross-shore sediment transport distribution and to compute the total volume of sand transport rate. The model is compared with the field data acquired from Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara, California.
Author | : R. E. Meyer |
Publisher | : Elsevier |
Total Pages | : 471 |
Release | : 2013-09-24 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 1483264521 |
Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport documents the proceedings of an Advanced Seminar held in October, 1971, aiming to offer a coherent, interdisciplinary view of the state of physical research in coastal oceanography and the direction in which this subject is moving. The articles range from wave refraction to littoral erosion, and the authors from geologists to mathematicians. The book opens with a study on the characteristics of wave records in the coastal zone. This is followed by separate chapters on sediment transport in beaches; equations for water waves; small-amplitude normal oscillations of a liquid body; and wave behavior near caustics in models and in nature. Subsequent chapters deal with nonlinear wave interaction in a variety of physical phenomena including deep water waves; the study of longshore currents; sediment suspension by periodic waves; forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone; run-up on beaches; and the wave breaking process in shallow water.
Author | : Paul D. Komar |
Publisher | : Prentice Hall |
Total Pages | : 462 |
Release | : 1976 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : |
Introduces beach processes within an approach that balances an engineering perspective against a purely geological one. Provides an up-to-date review of the current understanding of beach processes as well as applications to solve coastal problems (erosion, management issues, etc.). Discusses issues related to beach erosion and other processes. The second edition of Beach Processes and Sedimentation has been updated to include information gathered from two decades of science and engineering in the field, reflecting the vast increase in knowledge since the first edition. Discusses the rise of coastal zone management as well as patterns of wave transformations and dissipation within the surf zone, and how these water motions produce cross-shore movements of sediment resulting in beach-profile variations. An essential reference book for many readers: from beach front property owners to politicians contending with beachfront erosion to engineers addressing beachfront reclamation projects.
Author | : |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 21 |
Release | : 2000 |
Genre | : |
ISBN | : |
A large-scale laboratory facility for conducting research on surf-zone sediment transport processes has been constructed at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Successful execution of sediment transport experiments, which attempt to replicate some of the important coastal processes found on long straight beaches, requires a method for establishing the proper longshore current. An active pumping and recirculation system comprised of 20 independent pumps and pipelines is used to control the cross-shore distribution of the mean longshore current. Pumping rates are adjusted in an iterative manner to converge toward the proper settings, based on measurements along the beach. Two recirculation criteria proposed by Visser Coastal Eng. 15 1991 563 were also used, and they provided additional evidence that the proper total longshore flow rate in the surf zone was obtained. The success of the external recirculation system and its operational procedure, and the degree of longshore uniformity achieved along the beach, are the subjects of this paper. To evaluate the performance of the recirculation system, and as a precursor to sediment transport experiments, two comprehensive test series were conducted on a concrete beach with straight and parallel contours 1:30 slope, one using regular waves and the other using irregular waves. In the regular wave case, the wave period was 2.5 s and the average wave height at breaking was approximately 0.25 m. In the irregular wave case, the peak wave period was 2.5 s and the significant breaking wave height was approximately 0.21 m. The longshore current recirculation system proved to be very effective in establishing uniform mean longshore currents along the beach in both cases.
Author | : D. W. Ostendorf |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 200 |
Release | : 1979 |
Genre | : Littoral drift |
ISBN | : |
Author | : Andrew W. Garcia |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 68 |
Release | : 1976 |
Genre | : Beach erosion |
ISBN | : |
Author | : M. Schwartz |
Publisher | : Springer Science & Business Media |
Total Pages | : 1243 |
Release | : 2006-11-08 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 1402038801 |
This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.
Author | : L. C. van Rijn |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 760 |
Release | : 1998 |
Genre | : Beach erosion |
ISBN | : |
Author | : Todd E. Walton |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 24 |
Release | : 1980 |
Genre | : Littoral drift |
ISBN | : |