Wave Run Up On Beaches
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| Author | : M. C. Shen |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 84 |
| Release | : 1962 |
| Genre | : Ocean waves |
| ISBN | : |
The motion of water on a uniformly sloping beach, just after a bore reaches the shore, is studied. The shllow-water equations are used to fomulate a singular hyperbolic problem, which is solved by the help of RIEMANN'S Method and of the trutural theory of quasilinear hyperbolic equations developed in gas dynmics. The shore line is found to advance suddenly with non-zero velocity and then to move up and down the beach with constant, negative acceleration. The solution s shown to contain limit lines indiating a rather unexpeted, secondary bore in the back-wsh. (Author).
| Author | : Young C Kim |
| Publisher | : World Scientific |
| Total Pages | : 1775 |
| Release | : 2017-12-21 |
| Genre | : Technology & Engineering |
| ISBN | : 9813204036 |
The handbook contains a comprehensive compilation of topics that are at the forefront of many of the technical advances in ocean waves, coastal, and ocean engineering. More than 110 internationally recognized authorities in the field of coastal and ocean engineering have contributed articles in their areas of expertise to this handbook. These international luminaries are from highly respected universities and renowned research and consulting organizations around the world.
| Author | : Willard Bascom |
| Publisher | : Anchor |
| Total Pages | : 528 |
| Release | : 1980 |
| Genre | : Nature |
| ISBN | : |
| Author | : Philip L. F. Liu |
| Publisher | : World Scientific Publishing Company Incorporated |
| Total Pages | : 315 |
| Release | : 1995 |
| Genre | : Technology & Engineering |
| ISBN | : 9789810218249 |
Most of the Earth's surface is covered by water. Many aspects of our everyday lives and activities may be affected by water waves in some way. Sometimes, the waves can cause disaster. One of the examples was the tsunami that occurred in the Indian Ocean on 26 December 2004. This indicates how important it is for us to fully understand water waves, in particular the very large ones. One way to do so is to perform numerical simulation based on the nonlinear theory. Considerable research advances have been made in this area over the past decade by developing various numerical methods and applying them to emerging problems: however, until now there has been no comprehensive book to reflect these advances. This unique volume aims to bridge this gap.
| Author | : Permanent International Association of Navigation Congresses. Permanent Technical Committee II. Working Group 12 |
| Publisher | : PIANC |
| Total Pages | : 49 |
| Release | : 1992 |
| Genre | : Breakwaters |
| ISBN | : 2872230475 |
| Author | : Constantine Goudas |
| Publisher | : Springer Science & Business Media |
| Total Pages | : 426 |
| Release | : 2003-04-30 |
| Genre | : Computers |
| ISBN | : 9781402011535 |
The shift from hard shore to soft shore protection has been an impetus to further our understanding of coastal processes and to develop effective, environmentally friendly, and low-cost defence strategies against the erosive sea action. This collection of application-oriented contributions on Soft Shore Protection represents a milestone for environmental coastal engineering science and technology. It covers, among other subjects, nourishing techniques and light structures that slow down or even eliminate erosion, as well as possibilities that coastal management authorities and specialists need to know. Audience: Scientists at engineering, earth sciences and oceanography faculties and institutions will find essential information on this new, expanding field. This volume resulting from the Soft Shore Protection Conference 2000 is directed to educators, students, design coastal engineers, contractors, and national and local coast managers around the world.
| Author | : Willard Bascom |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 426 |
| Release | : 1961 |
| Genre | : Earth |
| ISBN | : |
| Author | : Leo H. Holthuijsen |
| Publisher | : Cambridge University Press |
| Total Pages | : 9 |
| Release | : 2010-02-04 |
| Genre | : Science |
| ISBN | : 1139462520 |
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
| Author | : Kim McCoy |
| Publisher | : Patagonia |
| Total Pages | : 400 |
| Release | : 2021-03-16 |
| Genre | : Nature |
| ISBN | : 9781938340956 |
The Bestselling Classic Updated for Surfers, Sailors, Oceanographers, Climate Activists, and Those Who Love the Sea First published in 1963 and updated in 1979, this classic was an essential handbook for anyone who studies, surfs, protects, or is fascinated by the ocean. The original author, Willard Bascom, was a master of the subject and included a wealth of information, based on theory and statistics, but also anecdotal observation and personal experience. It brought to the general public understanding of the awesome and complex power of the waves. This revision from Kim McCoy adds recent facts and anecdotes to update the book's relevance in the time of climate change. One of the most significant effects of global warming will be sea-level rise. What will this mean to waves and beaches, and what effects are we already seeing? New text and photos cover events such as the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004, Hurricane Katrina flooding of 2005, and the 2011 earthquake and resulting devastation in Fukishima. As well as students, surfers, and the general public, this updated edition of a beloved classic is an essential handbook for climate scientists and ocean activists, providing clear explanations and detailed resources for the constant battle to preserve the shore.
| Author | : Tristan Gooley |
| Publisher | : The Experiment |
| Total Pages | : 320 |
| Release | : 2012-06-05 |
| Genre | : Sports & Recreation |
| ISBN | : 1615191550 |
From the New York Times-bestselling author of The Secret World of Weather and The Lost Art of Reading Nature’s Signs, learn to tap into nature and notice the hidden clues all around you Before GPS, before the compass, and even before cartography, humankind was navigating. Now this singular guide helps us rediscover what our ancestors long understood—that a windswept tree, the depth of a puddle, or a trill of birdsong can help us find our way, if we know what to look and listen for. Adventurer and navigation expert Tristan Gooley unlocks the directional clues hidden in the sun, moon, stars, clouds, weather patterns, lengthening shadows, changing tides, plant growth, and the habits of wildlife. Rich with navigational anecdotes collected across ages, continents, and cultures, The Natural Navigator will help keep you on course and open your eyes to the wonders, large and small, of the natural world.
