Water Waves
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Author | : James Johnston Stoker |
Publisher | : Courier Dover Publications |
Total Pages | : 593 |
Release | : 2019-04-17 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 0486839923 |
First published in 1957, this is a classic monograph in the area of applied mathematics. It offers a connected account of the mathematical theory of wave motion in a liquid with a free surface and subjected to gravitational and other forces, together with applications to a wide variety of concrete physical problems. A never-surpassed text, it remains of permanent value to a wide range of scientists and engineers concerned with problems in fluid mechanics. The four-part treatment begins with a presentation of the derivation of the basic hydrodynamic theory for non-viscous incompressible fluids and a description of the two principal approximate theories that form the basis for the rest of the book. The second section centers on the approximate theory that results from small-amplitude wave motions. A consideration of problems involving waves in shallow water follows, and the text concludes with a selection of problems solved in terms of the exact theory. Despite the diversity of its topics, this text offers a unified, readable, and largely self-contained treatment.
Author | : David Lannes |
Publisher | : American Mathematical Soc. |
Total Pages | : 347 |
Release | : 2013-05-08 |
Genre | : Mathematics |
ISBN | : 0821894706 |
This monograph provides a comprehensive and self-contained study on the theory of water waves equations, a research area that has been very active in recent years. The vast literature devoted to the study of water waves offers numerous asymptotic models.
Author | : Robert G Dean |
Publisher | : World Scientific Publishing Company |
Total Pages | : 369 |
Release | : 1991-01-23 |
Genre | : Technology & Engineering |
ISBN | : 9814365696 |
This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.
Author | : A.J. Hermans |
Publisher | : Springer Science & Business Media |
Total Pages | : 177 |
Release | : 2010-10-21 |
Genre | : Technology & Engineering |
ISBN | : 9400700962 |
In this book an introduction is given to aspects of water waves that play a role in ship hydrodynamics and offshore engineering. At first the equations and linearized boundary conditions are derived describing the non-viscous free surface water waves, with special attention to the combination of steady and non-steady flow fields. Then some simple kinds of free wave solutions are derived, such as plane waves and cylindrical waves. For several situations, steady and unsteady, the source singularity function is derived. These functions play a role in numerical codes used to describe the motion of ships and offshore structures. These codes are mostly based on a boundary integral formulation; therefore we give an introduction to these methods. It is shown how first order ship motions can be determined. In offshore engineering the second order wave drift motions play an important role. An introduction to this phenomenon is given and the effects which have to be taken into account are explained by means of a simple example where we can determine nearly all the aspects analytically. An interesting example that is worked out is the motion of very large floating flexible platforms with finite draft. Finally an introduction to the theory of shallow water non-linear dispersive waves is presented, and shallow water ship hydrodynamics, that plays a role in coastal areas and channels is treated. Here attention is paid to the interaction between passing ships in restricted water. In the appendix a short introduction to some of the mathematical tools is given.
Author | : David Henry |
Publisher | : Birkhäuser |
Total Pages | : 218 |
Release | : 2019-12-06 |
Genre | : Mathematics |
ISBN | : 9783030335359 |
The motion of water is governed by a set of mathematical equations which are extremely complicated and intractable. This is not surprising when one considers the highly diverse and intricate physical phenomena which may be exhibited by a given body of water. Recent mathematical advances have enabled researchers to make major progress in this field, reflected in the topics featured in this volume. Cutting-edge techniques and tools from mathematical analysis have generated strong rigorous results concerning the qualitative and quantitative physical properties of solutions of the governing equations. Furthermore, accurate numerical computations of fully-nonlinear steady and unsteady water waves in two and three dimensions have contributed to the discovery of new types of waves. Model equations have been derived in the long-wave and modulational regime using Hamiltonian formulations and solved numerically. This book brings together interdisciplinary researchers working in the field of nonlinear water waves, whose contributions range from survey articles to new research results which address a variety of aspects in nonlinear water waves. It is motivated by a workshop which was organised at the Erwin Schrödinger International Institute for Mathematics and Physics in Vienna, November 27-December 7, 2017. The key aim of the workshop was to describe, and foster, new approaches to research in this field. This is reflected in the contents of this book, which is aimed to stimulate both experienced researchers and students alike.
Author | : Robin Stanley Johnson |
Publisher | : Cambridge University Press |
Total Pages | : 468 |
Release | : 1997-10-28 |
Genre | : Mathematics |
ISBN | : 9780521598323 |
This text considers classical and modern problems in linear and non-linear water-wave theory.
Author | : Evan Slater |
Publisher | : Chronicle Books |
Total Pages | : 148 |
Release | : 2012-05-09 |
Genre | : Photography |
ISBN | : 1452105936 |
Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.
Author | : Johannes Falnes |
Publisher | : Cambridge University Press |
Total Pages | : 319 |
Release | : 2020-05-28 |
Genre | : Science |
ISBN | : 1108481663 |
Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.
Author | : Bernard LeMéhauté |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 246 |
Release | : 1969 |
Genre | : Hydrodynamics |
ISBN | : |
Author | : A. Tørum |
Publisher | : Springer Science & Business Media |
Total Pages | : 751 |
Release | : 2012-12-06 |
Genre | : Technology & Engineering |
ISBN | : 9400905319 |
Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.