Surf For Your Life
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Author | : Tim Baker |
Publisher | : Random House (Australia) |
Total Pages | : 0 |
Release | : 2009 |
Genre | : Surfers |
ISBN | : 9781741669275 |
An inspirational tale of overcoming the odds to be the best surfer in the world. Mick Fanning might only be 27 but he already knows how a lot of things feel that most of us never will. How does it feel to lose a brother? Win a world title? Rip your hamstring muscle clean off the bone.
Author | : Brett Crozier |
Publisher | : Simon and Schuster |
Total Pages | : 240 |
Release | : 2023-06-13 |
Genre | : Self-Help |
ISBN | : 1982191023 |
Inspiring lessons learned from a lifetime of honor, service, and leadership from Captain Brett Crozier, the former commanding officer of the aircraft carrier USS Theodore Roosevelt and renowned Navy officer. Amid one of the darkest times in American history, it was a moment that captured the attention of the nation. Brett Crozier, captain of the most powerful and prestigious aircraft carrier in the United States Navy, walked off his ship for the last time while thousands of his sailors saluted and chanted his name in admiration. This remarkable moment occurred after Crozier made the decision to try to protect his sailors by pleading with his superiors for help when COVID-19 swept through the vessel. Two days later, he was relieved of command. Now, Crozier reflects on his life, career, and commitment to doing the right thing in a book that celebrates the power of kindness, the importance of teamwork, and the value of standing up for what you believe in. Through a series of captivating stories set all around the world, Crozier takes us along on the grand adventures of his extraordinary career and introduces the incredible people he met along the way. From his days as fighter pilot facing near-death experiences to commandeering suspected pirate vessels in the Persian Gulf, and of course, seizing any opportunity to enjoy one of his favorite hobbies—surfing—Crozier distills the lessons he has learned and the principles that have guided him, showing how you can apply them to your personal and professional life.
Author | : Tim Baker |
Publisher | : HarperCollins Australia |
Total Pages | : 39 |
Release | : 2010-06-01 |
Genre | : Sports & Recreation |
ISBN | : 0730449823 |
Inspiring stories from an eclectic cast of surfers 'tim Baker may well be the most brilliant and incisive surf writer working today, or on any givenday for the last twenty years.' worldprosurfers.com Leading surf journalist tim Baker has profiled the surfing world's most inspiring characters, encountered over two decades of surf writing, to highlight the life lessons and boundless inspiration to be gained from a lifestyle built around waveriding. From salty old surf legends to modern pro-surf stars, to surfers from all walks of life - writers, musicians, aid workers, ethicists - the common theme in all these surfers' lives is how their personal journeys have been shaped and informed by their experiences in the ocean. 'I think one of the most powerful outcomes of surfing is how it creates community and shared experiences across all sections of society. Surfing is a lingua franca of nature. Even dolphins and other sea creatures surf.' Vezen Wu, scientist 'Just the feeling of the water on you, diving and paddling, duck-diving your first wave, seeing a set come, turning around and stroking into it, that initial rush as you drop down the face, the jolts of acceleration as you go through the manoeuvres - there's nothing like it. the only thing that actually comes close to riding waves is sex.' Mark Richards, four-time world surfing champion 5% of author royalties from this book will be distributed to the following charities: Surf Aid International; Disabled Surfers Association; Life Rolls On; Surfers Healing; Surfrider Foundation
Author | : Mick Fanning |
Publisher | : Random House Australia |
Total Pages | : 130 |
Release | : 2010 |
Genre | : Juvenile Nonfiction |
ISBN | : 1864718234 |
Before the two world titles, before the sponsorships, before the jet-setting life on the world tour, being paid to do the thing you love most: weaving through zippering Superbank barrels and paddling over the ledge at places like Pipline and Teahupo'o.
Author | : Sara Dyer |
Publisher | : Finette Press |
Total Pages | : 71 |
Release | : 2021-03-05 |
Genre | : Sports & Recreation |
ISBN | : 1735643602 |
Cold water surfer Sara Dyer distills lessons learned through her time surfing the coast of New England and beyond in this brief manual for living and being. With candor, wit and good vibes, she offers bite-sized anecdotes, reflections and challenges on living our best lives on and off the water. A treasure trove of advice for both surfers and general lovers of wildness and living an authentic life, readers will keep this in their pocket for inspiration to dive in when they’re feeling resistance, be it cold water or any challenge in life.
Author | : |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 368 |
Release | : 2015 |
Genre | : |
ISBN | : 9781925324303 |
Author | : Stuart Holmes Coleman |
Publisher | : Macmillan |
Total Pages | : 292 |
Release | : 2004-02-07 |
Genre | : Biography & Autobiography |
ISBN | : 9780312327187 |
In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule'a. Eddie Would Go is the compelling story of Eddie Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii. "Splendid...clear and fascinating."--Greg Ambrose, San Francisco Chronicle "Enlightening...an impressive history...of surfing...of Hawaiian culture both at home and across the world."--Matt Walker, Surfing Magazine "Eddie Aikau's life is a story waiting to be told, and it could not have been told any better than in Stuart Coleman's Eddie Would Go. This is a bestseller in the same way as the The Perfect Storm."--Peter Cole, Big-Wave Surfing Pioneer "It's amazing the impact Eddie had on the surfing world and Hawaii. It touches the community at a real grass-roots level."--Kelly Slater, World Champion Surfer "A meaningful biography of a surfing hero...extraordinary." -Terry Rogers, The San Diego Union-Tribune "Coleman, a surfer himself, does an admirable job of de-mystifying this remarkable man." -Terry Tomalin, The St. Petersburg Times "Fantastic...a treat to read."-Mark Cunningham, Honolulu Weekly
Author | : Greg Noll |
Publisher | : North Atlantic Books |
Total Pages | : 228 |
Release | : 1989 |
Genre | : Biography & Autobiography |
ISBN | : 9781556431432 |
"Pioneer big-wave surfer, Greg Noll, was called Da Bull by his fellow surfers for his stubborn, straightforward and aggressive approach to the sport. His approach to life in general wasn't much different. His life revolved around surfing and everything the sport engendered. He made surfboards and surf films. He pioneered modern surfing in Australia. He discovered Mazatlan as a surf spot. He as the first to ride the fear-some waves at Waimea Bay and Outside Pipeline on Oahu's North Shore. He brawled and caroused with men, charmed and entertained women. Above all, he was Da Bull, one of the bravest and best of the big wave riders of his or anyone's era."--Amazon.com
Author | : Ben Marcus |
Publisher | : Voyageur Press (MN) |
Total Pages | : 96 |
Release | : 2006 |
Genre | : Sports & Recreation |
ISBN | : 9780760326534 |
Ninety full-color and black-and-white photographs, along with reflections, observations, wit, and wisdom by some of the sport's leading practitioners, including Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, capture the culture of surfing.
Author | : William Finnegan |
Publisher | : Penguin |
Total Pages | : 448 |
Release | : 2015-07-21 |
Genre | : Biography & Autobiography |
ISBN | : 0698163745 |
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.