Suspended Sediment in Breaking Waves

Suspended Sediment in Breaking Waves
Author: Timothy W. Kana
Publisher:
Total Pages: 174
Release: 1979
Genre: Marine sediments
ISBN:

Suspended sediment concentration was measured in 235 breaking waves on undeveloped beaches near Price Inlet, South Carolina, U.S.A., using portable in situ bulk water samplers. The purpose of the study was to determine what factors control the distribution of suspended sediment in the breaker zone. The final conclusion inferred from accumulated data is that sediment transport is highly dependent on breaker type. Net offshore movement and equilibrium profiles can be qualitatively explained on the basis of variations in wave form, beach slope and suspended sediment concentration. Longshore transport rates are dependent not only on wave height, but on breaker type, which can be quantified to reasonable certainty by the simple ratio, d sub b/H sub b, relative wave height. (Author).

Surf Zone Properties and On/offshore Sediment Transport

Surf Zone Properties and On/offshore Sediment Transport
Author: Wei-Chong Yang
Publisher:
Total Pages: 232
Release: 1982
Genre: Ocean waves
ISBN:

The surf zone properties and the on/offshore sediment transport rate were studied. A non-dimensional surf zone parameter was obtained by taking the ratio of natural swash period to wave period. This parameter, in addition to its wide application in describing the breaker types, was pertinent to describing the flow patterns in surf zone and defining the region of validity of the similarity solutions. A similarity model was applied to describe the flow field of breaking waves in surf zone. Laboratory results from other investigators and those obtained in the present study were used to test the validity of the proposed model. (Author).

Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport

Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport
Author: R. E. Meyer
Publisher: Elsevier
Total Pages: 471
Release: 2013-09-24
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1483264521

Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport documents the proceedings of an Advanced Seminar held in October, 1971, aiming to offer a coherent, interdisciplinary view of the state of physical research in coastal oceanography and the direction in which this subject is moving. The articles range from wave refraction to littoral erosion, and the authors from geologists to mathematicians. The book opens with a study on the characteristics of wave records in the coastal zone. This is followed by separate chapters on sediment transport in beaches; equations for water waves; small-amplitude normal oscillations of a liquid body; and wave behavior near caustics in models and in nature. Subsequent chapters deal with nonlinear wave interaction in a variety of physical phenomena including deep water waves; the study of longshore currents; sediment suspension by periodic waves; forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone; run-up on beaches; and the wave breaking process in shallow water.

Waves, Currents, and Sediment Transport in the Surf Zone Along Long, Straight Beaches

Waves, Currents, and Sediment Transport in the Surf Zone Along Long, Straight Beaches
Author: Yoshimitsu Tajima
Publisher:
Total Pages: 313
Release: 2004
Genre: Beaches
ISBN:

(Cont.) Introducing the predicted near-shore hydrodynamic characteristics, we extend the conceptual bedload and associated suspended load sediment transport models (Mad- sen, 2001) to the surf zone. The extended sediment transport model accounts for breaking wave effects such as an increase of turbulence due to broken waves and change of the momentum force balances due to breaking waves and surface rollers. The model predicted the peaks of longshore sediment transport observed near the shore line and the wave breaking point for plunging breakers.

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics
Author: Derek Jackson
Publisher: Elsevier
Total Pages: 814
Release: 2020-06-03
Genre: Science
ISBN: 0081029276

Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions. Includes chapters that are written by the world's leading experts, including the latest up-to-date thinking on a variety of subject areas Covers state-of-the-art techniques, bringing the reader the latest technologies/methods being used to understand beach systems Presents a clear-and-concise description of processes and techniques that enables a clear understanding of coastal processes

Encyclopedia of Coastal Science

Encyclopedia of Coastal Science
Author: M. Schwartz
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 1243
Release: 2006-11-08
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1402038801

This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.

Observations and Prediction of Intermittent Sediment Suspension in the Surf Zone

Observations and Prediction of Intermittent Sediment Suspension in the Surf Zone
Author: Hyun Doug Yoon
Publisher:
Total Pages: 184
Release: 2011
Genre: Sediment transport
ISBN:

In this dissertation the interactions between hydrodynamics, sediment suspension and transport, and morphological evolution in the surf zone was investigated with a large-scale laboratory experiment data, CROss-Shore Sediment Transport Experiment (CROSSTEX). The data set included comprehensive measurements of water surface elevation, fluid velocity, sediment concentration, and morphology for irregular waves under erosive and accretive beach conditions. First, hydrodynamics were examined in response to morphological evolution, focusing on turbulence due to wave breaking. For the erosive and accretive beach conditions, wave breaking characteristics, such as wave heights, average rate of energy dissipation by bores, and surf similarity parameter, were investigated in response to morphodynamics of the bar. Time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy was closely related to wave energy dissipation, supporting that wave energy dissipation is the main source of turbulent kinetic energy production in the surf zone. From this, it was found that wave energy, turbulent estimates, and morphodynamics in the surf zone were closely related to each other and they were quantitatively examined. Second, intermittent features of sediment suspension and turbulence, and their relationship were examined. Intermittent events of turbulence and sediment suspension occurred for a small portion of the time series but contained a significant amount of motions in these events. Comparison of intermittency statistics with previous studies conducted under different experimental conditions showed similar results, indicating that intermittency is a general aspect of turbulence and sediment suspension in the surf zone. Also the relationship between the turbulence and sediment suspension events were explored with conditional probabilities. Here, only 20~35% of the turbulent events were associated with sediment suspension events, implying that much of the intermittent turbulent motion may act to dissipate wave energy rather than suspend sediments. On the other hand, 50~65% of the sediment suspension events were associated with turbulent events, implying that intermittent turbulent motion is one of the fundamental mechanism for the initiation of sediment suspension in the surf zone. It was also found that the intermittent sediment suspension events significantly contributed to onshore sediment transport. Finally, the intermittent sediment suspension was predicted with an artificial neural network. Input hydrodynamics consisted of low-frequency motions, wave-induced motions, and turbulent kinetic energy near the bed and near water surface level. Artificial neural network provided a prominent prediction capability of sediment suspension, showing a correlation coefficient up to 0.79 at the bar crest in the accretive beach condition. From the investigation of various combinations of input data, it was found that turbulence is the most contributing factor for sediment suspension in the surf zone. The inclusion of the information from the upper sensor increases the prediction at the bar trough in the erosive case. The increased prediction at this location may possibly be attributed to the effect of vertical shear motion in the low-frequency range due to strong undertow from wave breaking.