Longshore-bars and Longshore-troughs

Longshore-bars and Longshore-troughs
Author: Francis P. Shepard
Publisher:
Total Pages: 38
Release: 1950
Genre: Bars (Geomorphology)
ISBN:

The submerged longshore-bars and longshore-troughs which skirt the shores off most sandy beaches are described. The troughs which lie landward of the bars are explained as the result of plunging breakers and the longshore currents which are feeders to rip currents. The bars are thought to be partly the result of the excavation of the troughs and partly due to landward migration of sand outside the breakers and seaward migration from the troughs. The depths of the bars and troughs are shown to be related to wave and breaker heights. The elimination of some bars is seen to be the effect of a long continued period of small waves during which the bar moves landward filling the trough. In many areas the deeper bars persist undisturbed through long periods of quiet seas. The analysis of thousands of profiles, mostly taken along California open ocean piers, is the chief basis for the preceding conclusions.

Encyclopedia of Coastal Science

Encyclopedia of Coastal Science
Author: M. Schwartz
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 1243
Release: 2006-11-08
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1402038801

This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.

Beaches of the Victorian Coast & Port Phillip Bay

Beaches of the Victorian Coast & Port Phillip Bay
Author: Andrew D. Short
Publisher: Sydney University Press
Total Pages: 311
Release: 2006
Genre: Nature
ISBN: 0958650403

Beaches of the Victorian Coast and Port Phillip Bay provides the first description of all Victorian ocean and Port Phillip Bay beaches. It is based on the results of the Victorian section of the Australian Beach Safety and Management Program. This book has two aims. First, to provide the public with general information on the origin and nature of all Victoria's beaches, including the contribution of geology, oceanography, climate and biota to the beaches, and information on beach hazards and safety. Second, to provide a description of each beach, including its name(s), location, access, facilities, dimensions and the character of the beach and surf zone. The book comments on the suitability of the beach for bathing, surfing and fishing, with special emphasis on the natural hazards. Based on the physical hazards, all beaches are rated in terms of public safety and scaled from 1 (least hazardous) to 10 (most hazardous).