Fashion At The Edge
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Author | : Caroline Evans |
Publisher | : Yale University Press |
Total Pages | : 348 |
Release | : 2003-01-01 |
Genre | : Design |
ISBN | : 0300101929 |
Caroline Evans analyses the work of experimental designers, the images of fashion photographers, and the spectacular fashion shows that developed in the final decade of the twentieth century to arrive at a new understanding of fashion's dark side and what it signifies? Drawing on a variety of literary and theoretical perspectives - from Marx to Benjamin - Evans argues that fashion plays a leading role in constructing images and meanings during periods of rapid change. She shows persuasively that fashion stands at the very centre of the contemporary, where it voices some of Western culture's deepest concerns.
Author | : Caroline Evans |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 326 |
Release | : 2007 |
Genre | : Costume |
ISBN | : 9780300135497 |
"Recent experimental fashion has a dark side, a preoccupation with representations of death, trauma, alientation, and decay. This ... book looks closely at this strand of fashion design in the 1990s, exploring what its disturbing themes tell us about consumer culture and contemporary anxieties ... Fashion at the Edge considers a range of cutting-edge contemporary fashion in ... depth and detail, including the works of such current designers as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Viktor and Rolf and Martin Margiela"--Cover.
Author | : Alicia Kennedy |
Publisher | : Rockport Publishers |
Total Pages | : 416 |
Release | : 2013-02-01 |
Genre | : Design |
ISBN | : 1610582012 |
Fashion Design, Referenced is a comprehensive guide through the art and industry of fashion design, richly illustrated with over 1,000 photographs and drawings. Within the framework of four central categories, Fashion Design, Referenced examines the many interwoven elements that form the tapestry of fashion. “Fundamentals” provides an overview of the essential structure of the fashion profession (its organization, specializations, and centers) and looks at shifts in style over time and in ever-faster cycles going forward. “Principles” introduces the steps in creating a collection, from design to production, and explores directions suggested by sustainability and technology. “Dissemination” charts the many avenues by which fashion reaches its audience, whether on the catwalk or in the store, in print or online, in the museum or on the street. “Practice” gathers and appraises the work of the most influential and innovative fashion designers of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. From its first question—What is fashion design?—to its last—What does the future hold?—Fashion Design, Referenced chronicles the scope of ideas, inspirations, and expressions that define fashion culture. Visit the Fashion Design, Referenced Facebook page and become a fan at http://www.facebook.com/FashionDesignReferenced!
Author | : W. David Marx |
Publisher | : Basic Books |
Total Pages | : 299 |
Release | : 2015-12-01 |
Genre | : Design |
ISBN | : 0465073875 |
The story of how Japan adopted and ultimately revived traditional American fashion Look closely at any typically "American" article of clothing these days, and you may be surprised to see a Japanese label inside. From high-end denim to oxford button-downs, Japanese designers have taken the classic American look—known as ametora, or "American traditional"—and turned it into a huge business for companies like Uniqlo, Kamakura Shirts, Evisu, and Kapital. This phenomenon is part of a long dialogue between Japanese and American fashion; in fact, many of the basic items and traditions of the modern American wardrobe are alive and well today thanks to the stewardship of Japanese consumers and fashion cognoscenti, who ritualized and preserved these American styles during periods when they were out of vogue in their native land. In Ametora, cultural historian W. David Marx traces the Japanese assimilation of American fashion over the past hundred and fifty years, showing how Japanese trendsetters and entrepreneurs mimicked, adapted, imported, and ultimately perfected American style, dramatically reshaping not only Japan's culture but also our own in the process.
Author | : Dana Thomas |
Publisher | : Penguin |
Total Pages | : 434 |
Release | : 2015-02-10 |
Genre | : Biography & Autobiography |
ISBN | : 1101617950 |
More than two decades ago, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen arrived on the fashions scene when the business was in an artistic and economic rut. Both wanted to revolutionize fashion in a way no one had in decades. They shook the establishment out of its bourgeois, minimalist stupor with daring, sexy designs. They turned out landmark collections in mesmerizing, theatrical shows that retailers and critics still gush about and designers continue to reference. Their approach to fashion was wildly different—Galliano began as an illustrator, McQueen as a Savile Row tailor. Galliano led the way with his sensual bias-cut gowns and his voluptuous hourglass tailoring, which he presented in romantic storybook-like settings. McQueen, though nearly ten years younger than Galliano, was a brilliant technician and a visionary artist who brought a new reality to fashion, as well as an otherworldly beauty. For his first official collection at the tender age of twenty-three, McQueen did what few in fashion ever achieve: he invented a new silhouette, the Bumster. They had similar backgrounds: sensitive, shy gay men raised in tough London neighborhoods, their love of fashion nurtured by their doting mothers. Both struggled to get their businesses off the ground, despite early critical success. But by 1997, each had landed a job as creative director for couture houses owned by French tycoon Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH. Galliano’s and McQueen’s work for Dior and Givenchy and beyond not only influenced fashion; their distinct styles were also reflected across the media landscape. With their help, luxury fashion evolved from a clutch of small, family-owned businesses into a $280 billion-a-year global corporate industry. Executives pushed the designers to meet increasingly rapid deadlines. For both Galliano and McQueen, the pace was unsustainable. In 2010, McQueen took his own life three weeks before his womens' wear show. The same week that Galliano was fired, Forbes named Arnault the fourth richest man in the world. Two months later, Kate Middleton wore a McQueen wedding gown, instantly making the house the world’s most famous fashion brand, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art opened a wildly successful McQueen retrospective, cosponsored by the corporate owners of the McQueen brand. The corporations had won and the artists had lost. In her groundbreaking work Gods and Kings, acclaimed journalist Dana Thomas tells the true story of McQueen and Galliano. In so doing, she reveals the revolution in high fashion in the last two decades—and the price it demanded of the very ones who saved it.
Author | : Caroline Evans |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 0 |
Release | : 2013 |
Genre | : Fashion shows |
ISBN | : 9780300189537 |
A superlative study of the roots of the modern fashion show In the early 20th century, the desire to see clothing in motion flourished on both sides of the Atlantic: models tangoed, slithered, swaggered, and undulated before customers in couture houses and department stores. The Mechanical Smile traces the history of the earliest fashion shows in France and the United States from their origins in the 1880s to 1929, situating them in the context of modernism and the rationalization of the body. Fashion shows came into being concurrently with film, and this book explores the connections between fashion and early cinema, which arguably functioned as what Walter Benjamin called "new velocities"--forces that altered the rhythms of modern life. Using significant new archival evidence, The Mechanical Smile shows how so-called "mannequin parades" employed the visual language of modernism to translate business and management methods into visual seduction. Caroline Evans, a leading fashion historian, argues for an expanded definition of modernism as both gestural and performative, drawing on literary and performance theory rather than relying on art and design history. The fashion show, Evans posits, is a singular nodal point where the disparate histories of commerce, modernism, gender, and the body converge.
Author | : Judith Clark |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 167 |
Release | : 2005 |
Genre | : Fashion |
ISBN | : 9781851774531 |
"As both curator and exhibition designer, Judith Clark addresses the relationship of contemporary fashion to history, creating a collage of visual references which offer a fascinating insight into the origins of current themes, such as alienation, trauma and phantasmagoria. Details of historic dress and images of nineteenth-century fairground architecture lead into the work of contemporary designers such as Vikto & Rolf, Maison Martin Margiela, Veronique Branquinho, Hussein Chalayan, Christian Lacroix and Shelley Fox. The ideas for the installation draw on a skeletal early industrial/metropolitan aesthetic, while the mannequins belong to the history of dolls and wax effigies, embodied in the mask-like catwalk make-up of Pat McGrath. This book includes a coda by fashion historian Caroline Evans, author of 'Fashion on the edge', from whom Clark has drawn assumptions about comtemporary dress, and an illustrated essay on the idea of the scaffold by Russian avant-garde architect Yuri Avvakumov. Also reproduced are designs commissioned by Clark for a giant shadow lantern from the celebrated New York fashion illustrator Ruben Toldeo, and sketches for customised mannequins by jeweller Naomi Filmer. The final section features photographs of the dramatic installations constructed for the exhibition." -- back cover.
Author | : Norah McClintock |
Publisher | : Darby Creek (Tm) |
Total Pages | : 204 |
Release | : 2013 |
Genre | : Juvenile Fiction |
ISBN | : 0761383190 |
When Robyn's boyfriend, Nick, starts spending more time with a girl from his past, Robyn focuses more on James, who is haunted by a family tragedy.
Author | : Dana Thomas |
Publisher | : |
Total Pages | : 322 |
Release | : 2019 |
Genre | : BUSINESS & ECONOMICS |
ISBN | : 0735224013 |
An investigation into the damage wrought by the colossal clothing industry--and the grassroots, high-tech, international movement fighting to reform it from a bestselling journalist who has traveled the globe to discover the visionary designers and companies who are propelling the industry toward that more positive future.ture.
Author | : Caroline Evans |
Publisher | : Bloomsbury Publishing |
Total Pages | : 201 |
Release | : 2020-07-09 |
Genre | : Design |
ISBN | : 135014696X |
Few phenomena embody the notion of time as well as fashion. Fast-moving and rooted in the 'now', it's constantly creating its own past through the process of rapid style change. Uniquely poised between the past and the future, fashion's relationship with time is unorthodox. Rather than considering time in the conventional sense, this anthology explores three alternative ways to think about fashion and time: the first identifies the seasonal nature of fashion as an industry, and shows how this has impacted on workers and wearers alike. The second looks at fashion design as a ceaseless process of adaptation, reconstruction and recombination of motifs, in which nostalgia and revivals play their part. The third construes fashion's 'imaginary', with its capacity for fantasy and myth-making, as a form of alternate history that asks 'what if?' Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.