Fashion at the Edge

Fashion at the Edge
Author: Caroline Evans
Publisher: Yale University Press
Total Pages: 348
Release: 2003-01-01
Genre: Design
ISBN: 0300101929

Caroline Evans analyses the work of experimental designers, the images of fashion photographers, and the spectacular fashion shows that developed in the final decade of the twentieth century to arrive at a new understanding of fashion's dark side and what it signifies? Drawing on a variety of literary and theoretical perspectives - from Marx to Benjamin - Evans argues that fashion plays a leading role in constructing images and meanings during periods of rapid change. She shows persuasively that fashion stands at the very centre of the contemporary, where it voices some of Western culture's deepest concerns.

Fashion at the Edge

Fashion at the Edge
Author: Caroline Evans
Publisher:
Total Pages: 326
Release: 2007
Genre: Costume
ISBN: 9780300135497

"Recent experimental fashion has a dark side, a preoccupation with representations of death, trauma, alientation, and decay. This ... book looks closely at this strand of fashion design in the 1990s, exploring what its disturbing themes tell us about consumer culture and contemporary anxieties ... Fashion at the Edge considers a range of cutting-edge contemporary fashion in ... depth and detail, including the works of such current designers as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Viktor and Rolf and Martin Margiela"--Cover.

Ametora

Ametora
Author: W. David Marx
Publisher: Basic Books
Total Pages: 299
Release: 2015-12-01
Genre: Design
ISBN: 0465073875

The story of how Japan adopted and ultimately revived traditional American fashion Look closely at any typically "American" article of clothing these days, and you may be surprised to see a Japanese label inside. From high-end denim to oxford button-downs, Japanese designers have taken the classic American look—known as ametora, or "American traditional"—and turned it into a huge business for companies like Uniqlo, Kamakura Shirts, Evisu, and Kapital. This phenomenon is part of a long dialogue between Japanese and American fashion; in fact, many of the basic items and traditions of the modern American wardrobe are alive and well today thanks to the stewardship of Japanese consumers and fashion cognoscenti, who ritualized and preserved these American styles during periods when they were out of vogue in their native land. In Ametora, cultural historian W. David Marx traces the Japanese assimilation of American fashion over the past hundred and fifty years, showing how Japanese trendsetters and entrepreneurs mimicked, adapted, imported, and ultimately perfected American style, dramatically reshaping not only Japan's culture but also our own in the process.

Spectres

Spectres
Author: Judith Clark
Publisher:
Total Pages: 167
Release: 2005
Genre: Fashion
ISBN: 9781851774531

"As both curator and exhibition designer, Judith Clark addresses the relationship of contemporary fashion to history, creating a collage of visual references which offer a fascinating insight into the origins of current themes, such as alienation, trauma and phantasmagoria. Details of historic dress and images of nineteenth-century fairground architecture lead into the work of contemporary designers such as Vikto & Rolf, Maison Martin Margiela, Veronique Branquinho, Hussein Chalayan, Christian Lacroix and Shelley Fox. The ideas for the installation draw on a skeletal early industrial/metropolitan aesthetic, while the mannequins belong to the history of dolls and wax effigies, embodied in the mask-like catwalk make-up of Pat McGrath. This book includes a coda by fashion historian Caroline Evans, author of 'Fashion on the edge', from whom Clark has drawn assumptions about comtemporary dress, and an illustrated essay on the idea of the scaffold by Russian avant-garde architect Yuri Avvakumov. Also reproduced are designs commissioned by Clark for a giant shadow lantern from the celebrated New York fashion illustrator Ruben Toldeo, and sketches for customised mannequins by jeweller Naomi Filmer. The final section features photographs of the dramatic installations constructed for the exhibition." -- back cover.

Women's Studies on the Edge

Women's Studies on the Edge
Author: Joan Wallach Scott
Publisher: Duke University Press
Total Pages: 232
Release: 2008-06-09
Genre: Social Science
ISBN: 082238910X

At many universities, women’s studies programs have achieved department status, establishing tenure-track appointments, graduate programs, and consistent course enrollments. Yet, as Joan Wallach Scott notes in her introduction to this collection, in the wake of its institutional successes, women’s studies has begun to lose its critical purchase. Feminism, the driving political force behind women’s studies, is often regarded as an outmoded political position by many of today’s students, and activism is no longer central to women’s studies programs on many campuses. In Women’s Studies on the Edge, leading feminist scholars tackle the critical, political, and institutional challenges that women’s studies has faced since its widespread integration into university curricula. The contributors to Women’s Studies on the Edge embrace feminism not as a set of prescriptions but as a critical stance, one that seeks to interrogate and disrupt prevailing systems of gender. Refusing to perpetuate and protect orthodoxies, they ask tough questions about the impact of institutionalization on the once radical field of women’s studies; about the ongoing difficulties of articulating women’s studies with ethnic, queer, and race studies; and about the limits of liberal concepts of emancipation for understanding non-Western women. They also question the viability of continuing to ground women’s studies in identity politics authorized by personal experience. The multiple interpretations in Women’s Studies on the Edge sometimes overlap and sometimes stand in opposition to one another. The result is a collection that embodies the best aspects of critique: the intellectual and political stance that the contributors take to be feminism’s ethos and its aim. Contributors Wendy Brown Beverly Guy-Sheftall Evelynn M. Hammonds Saba Mahmood Biddy Martin Afsaneh Najmabadi Ellen Rooney Gayle Salamon Joan Wallach Scott Robyn Wiegman

Experimental Fashion

Experimental Fashion
Author: Francesca Granata
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Total Pages: 232
Release: 2017-02-23
Genre: Social Science
ISBN: 1786720299

Shortlisted for the Millia Davenport Publication Award Experimental Fashion traces the proliferation of the grotesque and carnivalesque within contemporary fashion and the close relation between fashion and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat dress to Leigh Bowery's performance style. The book examines the designers and performance artists at the turn of the twenty-first century whose work challenges established codes of what represents the fashionable body. These innovative people, the book argues, make their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humour and inversion. It explores the experimental work of modern designers such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo and fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure Leigh Bowery. It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.

Time in Fashion

Time in Fashion
Author: Caroline Evans
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Total Pages: 201
Release: 2020-07-09
Genre: Design
ISBN: 135014696X

Few phenomena embody the notion of time as well as fashion. Fast-moving and rooted in the 'now', it's constantly creating its own past through the process of rapid style change. Uniquely poised between the past and the future, fashion's relationship with time is unorthodox. Rather than considering time in the conventional sense, this anthology explores three alternative ways to think about fashion and time: the first identifies the seasonal nature of fashion as an industry, and shows how this has impacted on workers and wearers alike. The second looks at fashion design as a ceaseless process of adaptation, reconstruction and recombination of motifs, in which nostalgia and revivals play their part. The third construes fashion's 'imaginary', with its capacity for fantasy and myth-making, as a form of alternate history that asks 'what if?' Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.

Fashionopolis

Fashionopolis
Author: Dana Thomas
Publisher:
Total Pages: 322
Release: 2019
Genre: BUSINESS & ECONOMICS
ISBN: 0735224013

An investigation into the damage wrought by the colossal clothing industry--and the grassroots, high-tech, international movement fighting to reform it from a bestselling journalist who has traveled the globe to discover the visionary designers and companies who are propelling the industry toward that more positive future.ture.

The Men's Fashion Book

The Men's Fashion Book
Author: Jacob Gallagher
Publisher: Phaidon
Total Pages: 528
Release: 2021
Genre: Design
ISBN: 9781838662479

The first-ever authoritative A-Z celebration of the 500 greatest names in men's fashion - 200 years of men's style through the work of designers, brands, photographers, icons, models, retailers, tailors, and stylists around the globe

Gods and Kings

Gods and Kings
Author: Dana Thomas
Publisher: Penguin
Total Pages: 432
Release: 2015-02-10
Genre: Biography & Autobiography
ISBN: 1101617950

More than two decades ago, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen arrived on the fashions scene when the business was in an artistic and economic rut. Both wanted to revolutionize fashion in a way no one had in decades. They shook the establishment out of its bourgeois, minimalist stupor with daring, sexy designs. They turned out landmark collections in mesmerizing, theatrical shows that retailers and critics still gush about and designers continue to reference. Their approach to fashion was wildly different—Galliano began as an illustrator, McQueen as a Savile Row tailor. Galliano led the way with his sensual bias-cut gowns and his voluptuous hourglass tailoring, which he presented in romantic storybook-like settings. McQueen, though nearly ten years younger than Galliano, was a brilliant technician and a visionary artist who brought a new reality to fashion, as well as an otherworldly beauty. For his first official collection at the tender age of twenty-three, McQueen did what few in fashion ever achieve: he invented a new silhouette, the Bumster. They had similar backgrounds: sensitive, shy gay men raised in tough London neighborhoods, their love of fashion nurtured by their doting mothers. Both struggled to get their businesses off the ground, despite early critical success. But by 1997, each had landed a job as creative director for couture houses owned by French tycoon Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH. Galliano’s and McQueen’s work for Dior and Givenchy and beyond not only influenced fashion; their distinct styles were also reflected across the media landscape. With their help, luxury fashion evolved from a clutch of small, family-owned businesses into a $280 billion-a-year global corporate industry. Executives pushed the designers to meet increasingly rapid deadlines. For both Galliano and McQueen, the pace was unsustainable. In 2010, McQueen took his own life three weeks before his womens' wear show. The same week that Galliano was fired, Forbes named Arnault the fourth richest man in the world. Two months later, Kate Middleton wore a McQueen wedding gown, instantly making the house the world’s most famous fashion brand, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art opened a wildly successful McQueen retrospective, cosponsored by the corporate owners of the McQueen brand. The corporations had won and the artists had lost. In her groundbreaking work Gods and Kings, acclaimed journalist Dana Thomas tells the true story of McQueen and Galliano. In so doing, she reveals the revolution in high fashion in the last two decades—and the price it demanded of the very ones who saved it.